Do Surrealists Dream of Enameled Eyes?

Urvashi Lele Art

Something rather surreal is coming to London this September. The Louisa Guinness Gallery will soon be home to a dazzling exhibition of jewels designed by surrealist artists of the early twentieth century to take us back to a more whimsical time. The brainchild of stockbroker-turned-curator Louisa Guinness, SURREALIST JEWELS 101 is a showcase of works spanning over a hundred years from the twentieth century to contemporary jewelers who have adopted the hallmarks of the style. 

Salvador Dali, The Eye of Time, Conceived in 1949 and executed 58-9.Inscribed Dalí (on the dial). Courtesy of Louisa Guinness Gallery and Leo Bieber.

The gallery was the first of its kind in London, dedicated strictly to art jewelry. Guinness’s intention was to champion artful adornments made by independent designers and display them in a way that elevates these creations beyond accessories. An avid supporter of up-and-coming talent, Guinness has a strong eye for curating works which proclaim a surrealist ethos, whether loudly or quietly. This exhibition is an effort to re-spark the viewer’s love for surrealism through a contemporary lens, making the century-old movement relevant to current societal tastes whilst still evoking the emotions associated with the original masters of the movement.

Enraptured by the dream-like freedom that the surrealist movement represents, the curator has selected jewels which explore concepts that push the boundaries of functionality or conventional beauty. Notable works include pieces by artists such as Salvador Dalí, Man Ray, Max Earnst, and Claude Lelane, which focus on how each artist engaged with design. The list of contemporary artists showcased is still growing and includes names like Hannah Martin (currently in residence at Sotheby’s London), Wen-Ju Tseng, Martina Kocianova, Veronika Fabian, Jiayang He and Roei Palant. 

Max Ernst ‘Tête aux Seins’ Pendant, c. 1961 Courtesy of Louisa Guinness Gallery and Leo Bieber.

There are indeed many pieces that draw the eye but the one that speaks most to Guinness is Salvador Dalí’s Eye of Time. Originally designed for his wife, Gala in 1949, this exquisite brooch is made of platinum and is embellished with diamonds, rubies, and blue enamel details that do nothing but evoke the visual senses. This work has been shown publicly before in 1960 at the Art in Jewels by Salvador Dalí exhibition held at Sotheby’s London. It made an appearance later that year at an exhibition in Madrid, followed by one in New York in 1971. Following that, the brooch has flown under the radar and has recently resurfaced for the SURREALIST JEWELS 101 showcase. It will only be on view at the gallery from September 24-26. 

Another exciting piece is Nana with Bag by French artist, Niki de Saint Phalle. Saint Phalle was a twentieth century artist who established herself as a respected jewelry designer in the male-dominated art world of the twentieth century. Better known for sculptures, her skills have been translated into beautiful adornments that strongly highlight the sculptural elements seen in her previous work.

Each piece in this exhibition has a unique story, provenance, and history. The gallery has curated this wonderfully delicious collection, under the watchful eye of an avid lover of the surrealist movement, working to keep its sentiment alive and champion its evolution through to the present day. 

SURREALIST JEWELS 101. Louisa Guinness Gallery, London. September 25 – October 31, 2025. @louisaguinnessgallery

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